Browsing Posts in Open Canoe

How to Trim a Canoe

The ability to ‘trim’ a canoe appropriately is a fundamental skill for any canoeist who wishes to paddle efficiently.  However, it can sometimes seem to be a bit of a ‘dark art’ as conflicting factors such as wind, direction of travel and flow of water all need to be balanced and trim adjusted accordingly.  In this article, we’ll look at basic trim and how to use it.

What is Trim?

‘Trim’ simply refers to how level the boat sits in the water when viewed from the side.  An empty boat will often sit level, and it is useful to think of this as a see-saw.  If we put a weight into one end of the canoe, that end will sink lower and the other end will go up.  If the weight is towards the back of the canoe we have trimmed the canoe ‘stern heavy (or ‘bow light’).  If the weight is toward the front of the canoe we have trimmed ‘bow heavy’ (or ‘stern light’).

The weight can be people or kit and equipment.  The important thing to remember is that as soon as we put weight into the canoe, we will almost certainly have changed the trim.

Why is Trim Important?

When we paddle, some of the canoe is submerged in the water.  The rest of the canoe is exposed to the air.  At any time water can either be still (for example when on a small lake) or moving (like on a river), and air can be still (no wind) or moving (windy).

Of the two ends, the end of the canoe which is deeper in the water will be affected more by the water.  The end which is higher into the air will be affected more by the air.

Depending on how fast the wind and the water are moving, one or other will usually have a greater influence on the canoe.  With appropriate trim, we can make use of this influence to help us steer towards our destination rather than get blown or washed off course.

We need to be careful not to ‘over trim’.  Usually, we’ll be able to achieve what we want with one end just a few centimetres (an inch or two) higher than the other end.

Standard Trim

On still water and with no wind, we want the canoe to glide over the water.  To do this we can raise one end by just a few of centimetres (an inch or two) and point the high end towards where you want to go.  I call this ‘standard trim’, because it is the trim I use 98% of the time.  I’ll usually maintain this until either the influence of the wind or the influence of the water makes the canoe turn away from where I want it to go.  I then ask myself, “is it the wind or the water which is influencing me most?”

The Influence of Wind

As the wind increases, as long as the boat goes where you want it to go in general terms we can maintain standard trim.  At some point, you may find that the canoe starts going off course or is not as easy to control.  This is usually because the wind is now the more significant factor and the high end is being blown down wind.  When this happens, imagine which way you want the canoe to go.  Then, with the canoe pointing in this direction, move the weight in small increments along the canoe towards where the wind is coming from (or towards the middle if the wind is coming from the side).  You only need to adjust the trim just enough to counter any negative effects of the wind until the desired effect is achieved.

The Influence of Fast Moving Water

Again, start with standard trim.  At some point, you may find that the canoe starts going off course.  This is usually because the water is now the more significant factor and the low end is being pushed down stream.  If this happens, imagine where you want the canoe to go and when pointing in this direction move the weight in the canoe towards where the water is going.  Again, adjust the trim in small increments until the desired effect is achieved.

What about a Combination of Strong Winds and Fast Rivers?

If the wind is strong and the river is fast, they could still be of equal influence so try standard trim.  However, if the canoe turns away from where you want it to go you may need to adjust trim.  If the strong wind is having the greatest influence, move the weight towards where the wind is coming from.  If the fast water is having the greatest influence, move the weight towards where the water is going.

Advanced Trim

As we become more skilful we can make trim adjustments more often –sometimes even changing trim several times within a particular manoeuvre.  If our trim is well adjusted, we can use subtle body weight shifts forwards and backwards to ‘micro trim’ our canoes.  For example, when we eddy out, we might be bow light as we approach the eddy line, then shift to bow heavy as we cross the eddy line.  This will cause the bow to ‘dig in’ to the water in the eddy.  The increased resistance will slow the front end down and the back end (now light) will skid sharply as is tries to overtake the bow and we should end up stalled nicely in the eddy.

Paddling Tactics

Trimming the canoe can be thought of as a tactic we can use to make our journey easier.  There are other tactics we can use which can help keep the boat pointing where we want it to.  We can paddle on the left or the right, we can apply the stroke further forward or further back, we can make the canoe move faster or slower, we can tilt the canoe over more towards one side or the other.  We can use different strokes and select different routes.

Often, to make the canoe perform at its best we need to apply a combination these tactics, and the exact combination will depend on the equipment we use, our skill level and the environment we are operating in.

One of the best ways to become skilful is to use as many different combinations in as many different environments as possible.  And remember, appropriate trim makes a good starting point which can make any other adjustments even more useful.  So if you are ever having trouble controlling your canoe, perhaps one of the first things to think about is trim.

For more information about canoe courses please contact me at Kim@kimbull.co.uk

Open canoe, sea kayak and white water courses and coaching, 1:1 and group workshops, BCU Training and Assessments in Northumberland and the North East.

Rescuing a Swamped Canoe Raft

Many people raft canoes together on open water, perhaps thinking that the additional stability offered by the raft provides a greater margin of safety.  This may be true in some circumstances, but rafting canoes does create additional hazards which should be considered.

Should your raft become swamped, then you have all your eggs in one basket.  Recovering swamped canoes can be challenging and is definately worth practicing.  All the paddlers will be in the water, so you will need a strategy for an “all-in rescue”.

Here is a short clip of a rafted canoe recovery and all-in rescue.

There are several tips which will make this process easier, and these start with the construction of the raft.

  • Use quick release knots, and minimise the number of different types of knots wherever possible.
  • Add buoyancy to the canoes.
  • Plan to take the raft apart by releasing the knots on one canoe – this allows both to be recovered and minimises the risk of losing equipment such as poles which can remain firmly tied to the other canoe.
  • Raft the canoes with a gap between them to reduce the chance of swamping.
  • When swamped, continue communicating and ensure everyone understands their role (eg to hold paddles, untie knots etc).
  • When the raft is untied, use one swamped canoe as a stable platform to perform an x-rescue of the other one.  With sufficient buoyancy, someone can climb into the swamped boat to make this easier.  Without this buoyancy, keep this canoe the right way up and the curve of the gunnel will prevent the other canoe from sliding off.
  • Work out how to get people back into boats (even swamped ones) early in the rescue.  This reduces immersion time and the chance of hypothermia.

All-in and swamped raft rescues are well worth practicing in a controlled environment (warm water, close to shore and in an on-shore wind) and with competent supervision.  Alternatively, these recoveries can be included in canoe and kayak training and assessment courses and are part of the BCU canoe four and five star syllabus.

If you would like more information about learning these skills then contact Kim.  Canoe coaching, kayak coaching, training and BCU assessments are available in the north of England, Cumbria, the borders of Scotland and beyond by arrangement.

Email – kim@kimbull.co.uk

Canoe Lining and Tracking

I had the good fortune to work with my good friend Ken Hughes on a BCU Five Star Open Canoe assessment recently.  The five star canoe syllabus includes lining and tracking a canoe on white water.

There are several different ways to do this, and some are demonstrated in the short video below.

Setting Up The Lines

This is shown early in the clip.  Two long lines (approximately 25 metres each) are used.  It helps if they are different colours.  The first is attached to the end grab at the stern of the canoe.  The second is attached to a ‘bridle’ fairly near the bow.  The bridle is a cord or webbing strap tied to perhaps the seat hanger on one side of the canoe, passed under the hull and tied to the seat hanger on the other side of the canoe.  At the centre-line of the canoe, the bridle has a small loop.  The second long line is attached to this loop so it’s attached in effect to the centre line of the outside of the hull.

This means that when this bow line is pulled, the canoe sits the right way up.  If this line was tied to the bow end loop the tendancy would be for the boat to capsize if the line was pulled hard.

Trim

The boat is trimmed upstream end light.  This allows the fast flow of the river to pass under the canoe easily, whether tracking upstream or lining downstream.  I find it helps to weight the downstream end so that the keel line at the stem of the boat is positively engaged in the water.  This is useful in giving extra control and allows you to ferry-glide the canoe away from you easily.

Position of the Person

Take full advantage of the length of the lines and work from a position as far upstream of the canoe as you can.  This allows you to pendulum the canoe well out and away from the bank you are standing on and even use eddies on the opposite side of the river.

Technique

Use steady or sharp pulls on the stern line to drive the canoe forwards.  Adjust the angle of the canoe in relation to the flow by adjusting the tension of the bow line.  Always keep the boat angled away from the bank you are standing on for maximum control.  Moving up the bank well upstream of the canoe gives you the most options for using the full width of the river.

Tactics

Rather than using brute force, work the boat from eddy to eddy as you would if paddling upstream.  This uses less energy, is more efficient and more skillful!

Hazards

Ropes and moving water are hazardous.  Using the full length of the rope means you have little ‘dead’ rope and are less likely to snag or trip.  Have a knife ready.  Never coil or wrap the rope around your hands.  If the pull on the rope is too strong for you just release one rope.  This will release any tension in the rope.

The shoreline can be slippery and uneven, so I wear a helmet on the bank.

Learning to Line and Track and Canoe

I include this traditional skill in many of the canoe courses in Northumberland, the North East, Cumbria and the Borders of Scotland which I run.  Lining and tracking training courses are available, and it is also included in the BCU Four Star and BCU Five Star Training and Assessment courses.

For information on any of these please contact me.

Email – kim@kimbull.co.uk

Canoe Rescue Saws and Air Bags

While paddling with a very good friend and exceptional paddler we pinned an open canoe on white water.  His boat quickly folded around him, but he was well equipped and exceptionally calm.  As the folding boat trapped his legs under his kneeling thwart he reached for his rescue saw, cut through one side of his kneeling thwart and freed himself in just a few seconds.

We then attached a line to the end of the boat, and because the large airbags he had kitted his boat with displaced so much water the two of us were able to un-pin the boat with a z-drag.

Have a look at the incident here-

After we had recovered the canoe, he cut off the rest of the kneeling thwart and we were able to enjoy the rest of the day on the river together.

The incident happened very quickly, and it was only through training in white water safety and rescue, practice, good equipment and by remaining calm that dealing with the incident was relatively routine.  Two pieces of equipment were very important – having the rescue saw at hand allowed the paddler to rapidly escape from the boat.  Large airbags significantly reduced the force of the water on the boat and enabled two people to recover it with a simple z-drag.

For details of safety and rescue training, FSRT, WWSR, canoe and white water training courses please contact Kim.

Email – kim@kimbull.co.uk

‘Grading’ Open Water for Canoe and Kayak Paddlers

Many people who canoe or kayak on white water or rivers use the grading system to help them understand and anticipate what they are likely to be up against when they get onto the water.  No such system exists for canoeists on large lakes or lochs.  The system laid out below is has been designed for using in these situations, and is loosely based on a system some sea kayakers use.

Score the following-

Water Temperature – 1 point for each degree below 20C
Wind – 1 point for each mph
Wave height – 2 points for each vertical foot (trough to crest)
Waves breaking – if yes add 10 points
Potential Swim distance – 1 point for every 25m (normal clothes), 100m (wet or dry suit)
Paddling at night/fog – 20 points
Each misc hazard (eg difficulty communicating, remoteness, time on the water, tiredness etc)- 10 points

Add up the scores from the above, then divide the total by 10 to get a grade. The grades are-
Grade 1 – easy conditions suitable for beginners close to shore.
Grade 2 – Moderate conditions, intermediate skills required.
Grade 3 – Intermediate to advanced skills required.
Grade 4 – Difficult – advanced skills required.
Grade 5+ – Very difficult – experts only.

As an example. Paddling across a 200m lake, water temperature 10C, wind force 3 (10mph), 1 foot waves, long fetch so some whitecaps, daytime, dressed in pile and fleece clothes.
Water Temperature – 1 point for each degree below 20C – 10 points
Wind – 1 point for each mph -10 points
Wave height – 2 points for each vertical foot (trough to crest) -2points
Waves breaking – if yes add 10 points -Yes 10 points
Swim distance – 1 point for every 25m from shore (normal clothes), 100m (wet or dry suit) -100m in normal clothes – 4 points
Paddling at night/fog – 20 points -0 points
Any misc hazard – 10 points -0 points
Total – 36 points. Divide by 10 = 3.6
Grade 3 – Intermediate to advanced skills required.

For details of canoe and kayak training, BCU courses and canoe coaching or kayak coaching contact Kim Bull.  Training courses run throughout the North East, Cumbria and the borders of Scotland.

Email:  kim@kimbull.co.uk

Estimating Distance for Sea Kayak and Open Canoe Paddlers

When sea kayaking or canoeing on large areas of open water, lakes or lochs, distances can be deceptive – and having some helpful indicators of your distance from an object can be really useful.  For a quick estimate, you can look at the amount of detail you can see and relate it to these guidelines-

If you can see-

  • peoples faces, clothes and deck gear – you are less than 500m away.
  • hands, arms and paddle blades – you are less than 750m away.
  • people as posts or dots – you are less than 1km away.
  • large buoys, tree trunks and branches – you are less than 1.5km away.
  • large trees, chimneys and can count windows – you are less than 3km away.
  • large houses or towers – you are less than 7.5km away.

Learning how to do this accurately is covered in the BCU star award and personal skills courses.  For more information about these contact Kim.

For details of canoe and kayak training, BCU courses and canoe coaching or kayak coaching contact Kim Bull.  Training courses run throughout the North East, Cumbria and the borders of Scotland.

Email:  kim@kimbull.co.uk

BCU Three Star Open Canoe Training and Assessment, North East and Northumberland

Course Aims:

Come and paddle with us for two days. We’ll train you with the latest modern Open Canoe techniques which allow you to paddle with increased skill and confidence wherever you want to paddle. You’ll take away new skills and develop many of your existing techniques and strategies. At the end of the two days, if you’re up to standard we’ll give you your 3 Star Award.

Course Dates (two day courses):

Courses can be organised by arrangement.  Minimum numbers are required.

Venue:

Northumberland.

Pre-requisites:

You should have completed at least 2 journeys (each trip of about 10km or 3 hours duration).  You also need your 2 Star award, or evidence of having paddled a different type of craft for about 3 hours.

For further information and to check availability contact Kim.

For more information on coaching and courses please contact me at Kim@kimbull.co.uk

Open canoe, sea kayak and white water courses and coaching, 1:1 and group workshops, BCU Training and Assessments in Northumberland and the North East.

Sailing Rafted Canoes

At a recent Four Star Leader Training course in the North East the group experimented with rafted improvised sailing rigs and were able to test them out for real in winds of Force 4 and gusting Force 5.  The group had a lot of fun, and we spent some time discussing the safety implications of rafting boats and sailing.

Before I get onto the specifics of what was discussed, have a look at a video of their achievements-

Some thoughts on safety-

Use a single cross-spar to raft the boats – this allows both hulls to ride the waves independently and less likely to swamp.

Ensure a gap between the hull – a 30cm gap significantly reduces the risk of the bow waves created by each hull converging and washing into the boats.

Use quick release knots where possible.  The whole rig can be set up with quick release knots.  This might be important if the raft becomes swamped and the boats might need to be seperated for rescue.  A knife would serve the same purpose.

Carry a large bailer – a bucket sized bailer is good.

Ensure the sail can be instantly de-powered.  On these rigs, a karabiner was suspended just below the apex of the A-frame.  A line was passed though this and tied to the sail.  This line was used to quickly raise and lower the sail.

Carry a throw bag for rescuing people who fall overboard.  Even if the sail is instantly de-powered, the raft may blow away from the person in the water more quickly than the swimmer can swim.  If the wind is strong enough the raft crew will take some time  to paddle back to the person, and may not make it back at all.

Please contact me for details of similar training or the BCU Four Star Award.

For details of canoe and kayak training, BCU courses and canoe coaching or kayak coaching contact Kim Bull.  Training courses run throughout the North East, Cumbria and the borders of Scotland.

Email: kim@kimbull.co.uk

Beaufort Scale – a Guide for Canoeing and Kayaking

Before going out on the water, canoe and kayak coaches and group leaders often need to plan taking into consideration the weather forecast they have obtained.  So it can be really useful to be able to judge what water conditions to expect based on a given wind forecast.  The version of the Beaufort Scale below helps you do this.  Simply find the wind speed expected from the forecast and look across to how this is likely to affect the water.  This is particularly relevent for sea kayakers or those travelling on exposed open water.

BEAUFORT SCALE: Specifications and equivalent speeds for use at sea

FORCE  EQUIVALENT SPEED   DESCRIPTION      SPECIFICATIONS FOR USE AT SEA
     10 m above ground
     miles/hour  knots
0       0-1      0-1      Calm             Sea like a mirror
1       1-3      1-3      Light air        Ripples with the appearance of
                                           scales are formed, but without
                                           foam crests.
2       4-7      4-6      Light Breeze     Small wavelets, still short,
                                           but more pronounced. Crests
                                           have a glassy appearance and
                                           do not break.
3       8-12     7-10     Gentle Breeze    Large wavelets. Crests begin
                                           to break. Foam of glassy
                                           appearance. Perhaps scattered
                                           white horses.
4      13-18    11-16     Moderate Breeze  Small waves, becoming larger;
                                           fairly frequent white horses.
5      19-24    17-21     Fresh Breeze     Moderate waves, taking a more
                                           pronounced long form; many
                                           white horses are formed.
                                           Chance of some spray.
6      25-31    22-27     Strong Breeze    Large waves begin to form; the
                                           white foam crests are more
                                           extensive everywhere.
                                           Probably some spray.
7      32-38    28-33     Near Gale        Sea heaps up and white foam
                                           from breaking waves begins to
                                           be blown in streaks along the
                                           direction of the wind.
8      39-46    34-40     Gale             Moderately high waves of greater
                                           length; edges of crests begin to
                                           breakinto spindrift. The foam is
                                           blown in well-marked streaks
                                           along the direction of the wind.
9      47-54    41-47     Severe Gale      High waves. Dense streaks of
                                           foam along the direction of the
                                           wind. Crests of waves begin to
                                           topple, tumble and roll over.
                                           Spray may affect visibility.
10     55-63    48-55     Storm            Very high waves with long over-
                                           hanging crests. The resulting
                                           foam, in great patches, is blown
                                           in dense white streaks along the
                                           direction of the wind.  On the
                                           whole the surface of the sea
                                           takes on a white appearance.
                                           The 'tumbling' of the sea becomes
                                           heavy and shock-like. Visibility
                                           affected.
11    64-72     56-63     Violent Storm    Exceptionally high waves (small
                                           and medium-size ships might be for
                                           a time lost to view behind the
                                           waves).  The sea is completely
                                           covered with long white patches
                                           of foam lying along the direction
                                           of the wind. Everywhere the edges
                                           of the wave crests are blown into
                                           froth. Visibility affected.
12    73-83     64-71     Hurricane        The air is filled with foam and
                                           spray. Sea completely white with
                                           driving spray; visibility very
                                           seriously affected.

You can learn how to understand the connection between water conditions and wind speed on our courses.  This is covered within the BCU star tests and personal skills courses – so contact Kim for more information.

For details of canoe and kayak training, BCU courses and canoe coaching or kayak coaching contact Kim Bull.  Training courses run throughout the North East, Cumbria and the borders of Scotland.

Email – kim@kimbull.co.uk

Pinned Canoe Rescue

Canoeists and kayakers have many ways to rescue a pinned canoe.  This clip shows the recovery of a canoe pinned on the River Tyne.  After attaching a line it was clear that the boat couldn’t be simply pulled off the rock.  The rope was used to set up a simple Z-drag to allow the application of a mechanical advantage.  The set up is shown clearly- as is it’s effectiveness!

For more information on safety and rescue training, including the BCU Foundation Safety and Rescue course contact Kim.

For details of canoe and kayak training, WWSR, BCU courses and canoe coaching or kayak coaching contact Kim Bull.  Training courses run throughout the North East, Cumbria and the borders of Scotland.

Email – kim@kimbull.co.uk

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